The drive up the Dempster was amazing but the highlight of the journey was our stay in Tuktoyaktuk
There was a degree of excitement in the late afternoon, as we passed the Pingo viewpoint and entered the town of Tuktoyaktuk. The gravel highway becomes the main road through town, winding its way to a gravel spit of land and the famous Arctic Ocean sign. As we approached the end of the road we began to see tents, trailers, truck campers and the odd big overland rig camped on the side of the road on the edge of the Arctic Ocean. Turning around at the Arctic Ocean sign we doubled back a short distance and found a spot big enough for the truck and Jeep.
Some sites had picnic tables and there was the odd fire ring. Most of these had been snapped up long before we arrived. There are no formal sites or site numbers, so you fit yourself in wherever there is space and without encroaching too much on your neighbours. There is no privacy, there are no trees - just gravel and rocks and a driftwood lined rocky shoreline. The town has positioned a few toilets and garbage bins in the area. Despite what you might see on some older reviews and YouTube videos, this is absolutely where the locals want you to camp. They do not want you to swim in this location as it is a traditional fishing site. There are other nicer gravel beaches in town were swimming is encouraged.
We were quick to set up the tents and Claire, Katrina and Will set out on foot to explore the town and look for Grandma’s Kitchen to find some diner. I stayed in camp with Ruby, feet up on the cooler, looking out on the Arctic Ocean, quietly sipping a beer.
We started with the muktuk tasting. All I can say is that I’m glad I tried it, but it wouldn’t be on my list of favourite foods.
The locals were very friendly and welcoming. Kids walked by and made a point of saying hello to the tourists. It was a Saturday evening and many folks in Tuk seem to enjoy taking a drive out to the point, no doubt checking out the fresh batch of crazy tourists camped out in their town. It wasn’t long before the crew was back with some burgers, fries, muktuk (beluga), bannock and local dounuts - all from Grandma’s Kitchen. We started with the muktuk tasting. All I can say is that I’m glad I tried it, but it wouldn’t be on my list of favourite foods.
We stayed up to get photos of the sun at midnight, it was low in the sky over the Arctic Ocean, but there would be no sunset for many more weeks. The sporadic parade of locals in trucks, and young folks on ATVs & dirt bikes continued past midnight so it wasn’t a particularly quiet camping spot.
The next morning we packed up. The plan was to spend the day in Tuk before heading back the 140km to Inuvik for the night. We arranged a boat tour with James Keevik and met him and his son at the local boat launch. We had an awesome time with them and learned so much about Tuk, the pingos, hunting, fishing, the land and its people. This was the highlight of our stay and I would recommend James’ boat tour to anyone making the trip to Tuk. Give him a call at (867) 977-2662, you won't be disappointed.
We finished off our time in Tuk visiting the gift shop and another trip to Grandma’s Kitchen for some caribou stew. After refuelling we stopped in at the Parks Canada Pingo viewpoint on the edge of town for some more photos before heading on our way back to Inuvik for the night.
My life has taken me all around the globe, but I continue to be most amazed and impressed by the beauty and wonder of my home country. Driving to Tuk was a fantastic experience, but visiting Tuk and having such warm, welcoming and informative interactions with the locals was absolutely amazing. I learned so much and would highly recommend this trip to everyone.
Drive to the Arctic Ocean - just do it.
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